Acne Studios has always understood that looking slightly wrong can be more interesting than looking perfect. Jonny Johansson has built an entire visual language around clothes that feel worn, oversized, strangely proportioned or put together in a way that should almost fail. Spring/Summer 2026 pushes that instinct even further.

The collection is built around the tension between menswear and womenswear, but the result never feels like a simple exercise in borrowing from one wardrobe and placing it into another. Johansson breaks familiar archetypes apart first, then rebuilds them until a suit, leather jacket or delicate layer starts behaving differently on the body.

THE SUIT IS SUPPOSED TO FEEL A LITTLE OFF

Tailoring carries much of the collection. Jackets arrive oversized and slightly slouched, shoulders extend beyond where they should and trousers fall with the kind of looseness that makes traditional suiting feel almost accidental. The proportions are exaggerated, but the clothes never tip fully into costume.

That balance is what Acne does particularly well. A large jacket can still feel elegant because the fabric, colour and styling keep it controlled. A worn-looking leather piece can still read as luxury because the imperfection feels deliberate. Instead of polishing everything into submission, Johansson lets the clothes retain some friction.

GENDER ISN'T THE INTERESTING PART

The collection may question the line between menswear and womenswear, but its strongest moments come from what happens after those categories stop mattering. Lace sits beneath boxy tailoring, leather trousers meet soft knitwear and oversized bags are carried with looks that move between masculine and feminine without needing to declare either one.

That makes the collection feel less like a statement about gender and more like a statement about freedom in styling. Johansson is interested in what happens when the expectations attached to a garment disappear. A blazer no longer has to make someone look powerful, and lace does not need to make someone look delicate.

AWKWARDNESS HAS BECOME THE LUXURY

That is ultimately why Acne Studios continues to feel distinctive. The house does not rely on conventional polish to communicate value. Its clothes can look creased, washed out, oversized or slightly strange and still feel considered because the awkwardness is part of the design rather than something that needs correcting.

Spring/Summer 2026 makes that philosophy unusually clear. Johansson takes some of the most familiar pieces in fashion and removes just enough certainty from them to make them interesting again.

Acne Studios does not make perfection look expensive. It makes imperfection look intentional.